It’s good for you and the environment, doesn’t cost anything, and will almost certainly put the kid back in your heart. All you need is a bicycle. I’ve been a dedicated biker now for almost two years. I traded my coupe for a dependable road bike and swear I’ll never go back. But since I moved to California two months ago, I’ve begun to appreciate my bike in ways I never thought possible. During the week, I work and explore the city. But when the week ends, I bike. Such has been my San Franciscan credo since the first time I crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and landed in Sausalito. It wasn’t long before I dreamt of biking through valleys of vineyards. I could see the roads lined with lush green vines and feel the sunshine on my weathered cheeks. I could almost taste the wine.
Recently I biked with my roommate Ben from our apartment in San Francisco to Sonoma and made this dream come true. It was surprisingly easy, and exhilarating to bike 56 miles and go straight to a winery. I was tired but so exultant when I got there I didn’t notice my legs. Plus, nothing refreshes a parched biker like a crisp chilled sip of sparkling wine, enjoyed while overlooking the recently spanned land. Our first destination was Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards.
It could have been how gracious the entire staff was or it could have been the quaint grandeur of Ferrer’s Spanish-style villa, but instantly I realized I had biked directly into an entire county whose sole purpose was to make sure I did not leave wanting. We had arrived in the land of indulgence, and the land was happy to see us. The entire staff, the colonnades, and terrace all convinced of this. We caught our breaths, re-hydrated, and started our first tour.
In 1986, Gloria Ferrer was the first to produce sparkling wines in Carneros, and to this day the family produces more sparkling wines than anyone else in the world. Of their astonishing 150,000 cases per year, 105,000 are sparkling. In retrospect, it seems extremely odd that Ferrer produces more wine than either of the two other wineries we visited. Not only because their facility is smaller, which it seemed to be, but because their worker bees were so friendly and personal.
Upon arrival, I happened to mention that I couldn’t find my bungee cords when I was leaving my apartment at five in the morning and had to carry my massive bag on my back. Before leaving, I was presented with a gift, wrapped and everything: bungee cords! That’s the kind of service I got at Gloria Ferrer. It was like doing global business with a mom and pop shop. Our guide Cindy even offered to be our wine country concierge and gave us tips on other wineries, restaurants, and local events.
While tasting our wines Ben and I both agreed that this was the best idea we’d ever had. We agreed to this several times at Gloria Ferrer, and MacArthur Place only confirmed it.
Tucked away on the edge of the city of Sonoma, MacArthur Place is a historic Inn and Spa with serene landscaping that includes gardens of roses and lavender, original sculptures and fountains, and a pervasive calm to be found no matter where you might roam (I enjoyed simply wandering through the labyrinth of smells and foliage)—except for the patio on Fridays, which hosts a barbecue with live music and full bar service. A complimentary wine and cheese reception is also offered every day.
We dined at the Inn’s notorious restaurant Saddles for dinner because we missed most of the barbecue, but also because we wanted to treat ourselves. A wise choice. I knew the food was going to be excellent when they brought us warm steak knives. Warm steak knives! It was so good, in fact, that neither one of us left a bite. To stamp the day with perfection I got in the hot tub. Turns out, I was not too tired to smile.
